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Whore Train
supernaut ... i whore for art March 01, 2005 Jiulong - you ain't in Hong Kong anymore china - climb - guangzhou A while ago, I saw some photos of a place just north of Guangzhou that looked so like Yangshou, the current mecca of slumming-it climbers in China I couldn't believe it was almost untouched. Soaring limestone spires rising up out of terraced fields with roaming water buffalo, and sheer, clean faces just screaming to be climbed. This Sunday, with a bunch of climbers from Hong Kong, Shenzhen and the Guangzhou guy who started the current frenzy, we went on an adventure where the drive up was as memorable as the climbing. There are two ways to get to Jiulong. One is direct, on good mostly roads and gets you into town in around two hours. The other, and if you reach Yingde you know you've screwed up, is a six hour haul along a muddy two lane river-bed. Our driver excelled in the sodden conditions despite losing the rear-bumper on a more exuberant pot-hole traverse, and kept us laughing all the way after drenching an already wet and cold family on a motorbike, then stopping to ask them for directions. the walk-in scares off the sport climbers The increasingly surreal haul into Jiulong ended about the same time as the rain, and we were greeted one of those clichéd traditional Chinese ink-paintings come to life. Deep-green, tree covered towers shrouded in mist and wisps of lifting cloud, conical-hatted farmers driving water buffalo in rice paddies gently terraced on the flat plains, and a four-wheel-drive with a bunch of interloping climbers from Macau. the road into town Jiulong town is alot like Yangshou, except the tourist boom in the latter was at the expense of this region, which is still like any small, poor farming town anywhere in Southern China. Having eight climbers on one crag beside the road meant a whole days entertainment for the town as well as highlighting the differences between a place where tourism is a way of life and where foreigners are still a weird and seldom seen. two interlopers with drills and bolts But we came here for the rock. Despite our continual amazement at how good this area is from what little we saw, Eman who brought us up insisted this was nothing and the walk-in to all that was too far compared to the good-stuff down the road. But sighting Paul from Macau who put up many routes at Yangshou drilling and bashing in hangers, we started the busiest afternoon the place has seen. A short, muddy scramble up to the face, conveniently provided with a small dynamited cave and there it was. A pitch of smooth yellow and white limestone in need of no cleaning, lots of small pockets and edges, and plenty of star-worthy vertical and overhung climbing. Followed by a fearsome, curved roof sitting above a horizontal crackline which was also a fine traverse, and then on up through more exceptionally good climbing to where the rock went black and chossy. first ascent of thief The quartet of Paul and fellow Hong Kongers had been there since Saturday and had drilled two routes on the left, Love at first sight (5.8?) and Thief (5.10a?) leaving us to work the middle. We arrived late and by the time Eman had bolted the top of the new line it was time to go. Still, a run up Love is a great introduction to this face, with some great balancey, fingery moves through the overhanging crux. About 15 obvious lines are awaiting a quick bolting, not including anything that goes up over the roof into the second pitch. the main wall - one of hundreds The drive back was quick along the excellent Guangqing Highway, and with some road-works took 2 1/2 hours back to home. It's also possible to get a train to Qingyuan then bus or hire a driver to Jiulong, or get a bus all the way there, something I'll be checking out this week in preparation for next week's return. So, wanna climb phenomenal limestone in Southern China, put up lots of new routes, be at the start of a new climbing mecca? Come on up to Jiulong. the road to climbing paradise Technorati Tags: - China - Guangdong - Rock Climbing
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Best New Music BEST NEW MUSIC SHINE Gentley Insane rock alternative pop What a great name for an emerging group! 'Shine.' This is exactly what this quartet does, they shine - and blindingly so, this group is making some decent waves in the music scene, and it isn't surprising with the talent they've got. If the music doesn't reach you, then the lyrics will, especially when delivered by this prodigious vocalist! They will leave an indelible impression somewhere within your subconscious, and you won't realize it until you find yourself humming one of the songs from the disc! Shine is: Marnie Anderson (vocals), Jeff Fairbank (electric, acoustic guitars, backing vocals), Neil Bell (bass, backing vocals), and Matt Pavan (drums, percussion). Singularly, they are talented, together they are fantastic. Site: www.shinemusic.ca Samples: music.yahoo.com GooGoo Dolls Better Days rock alternative accoustic Early in their career, Buffalo natives the Goo Goo Dolls were frequently dismissed by critics as mere imitators of the Replacements; however, the band refined and mainstreamed their sound enough to become of the most popular adult alternative rock bands of the latter half of the '90s, selling millions of records to audiences largely unfamiliar with their inspirations. That's no knock on the band either their music simply improved in craft and accessibility as the years progressed, and radio happened to be receptive to what a decade earlier would have been considered collegiate power pop. Thus, the band landed two huge hits with the acoustic ballads "Name" and "Iris." The Goo Goo Dolls were formed in Buffalo, NY, in 1985 by guitarist / vocalist Johnny Rzeznik, bassist Robby Takac, and drummer George Tutuska Site: www.googoodolls.com Samples: music.space
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More for myspace backgrounds and myspace layouts . Use these tips to improve a myspace layout. To create a horizontal line, for dividing your page or highlighting, simply add this as HTML: <hr> That is it. The <hr> tag inserts a line on your page, like the one below. To use a horizontal rule of a different length, use the tag <hr width=50%> . Here is the example: To change the thickness, of a horizontal rule, use <hr size=XX> . This example uses <hr size=10> I actually added another attribute to the <hr> tag above called "noshade." Noshade creates a darker line, as is shown compared to the one above. It actually reads <hr size=10 noshade> myspace background backgrounds layout layouts html codes my space Myspace HTML Codes. Get sample layouts to use in Myspace. To Install Codes: 1. Go to Myspace.com and login. 2. Click on Home from the top navigation bar. 3. Click on Edit My Profile [it's by your picture blue box] 4. Make sure your on Interests & Personality tab. 5. 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Hex Code Color #FFFFFF #FFFFCC #FFFF99 #FFFF66 #FFFF33 #FFFF00 #FFCCFF #FFCCCC #FFCC99 #FFCC66 #FFCC33 #FFCC00 #FF99FF #FF99CC #FF9999 #FF9966 #FF9933 #FF9900 #FF66FF #FF66CC #FF6699 #FF6666 #FF6633 #FF6600 #FF33FF #FF33CC #FF3399 #FF3366 #FF3333 #FF3300 #FF00FF #FF00CC #FF0099 #FF0066 #FF0033 #FF0000 Hex Code Color #66FFFF #66FFCC #66FF99 #66FF66 #66FF33 #66FF00 #66CCFF #66CCCC #66CC99 #66CC66 #66CC33 #66CC00 #6699FF #6699CC #669999 #669966 #669933 #669900 #6666FF #6666CC #666699 #666666 #666633 #666600 #6633FF #6633CC #663399 #663366 #663333 #663300 #6600FF #6600CC #660099 #660066 #660033 #660000 Hex Code Color #CCFFFF #CCFFCC #CCFF99 #CCFF66 #CCFF33 #CCFF00 #CCCCFF #CCCCCC #CCCC99 #CCCC66 #CCCC33 #CCCC00 #CC99FF #CC99CC #CC9999 #CC9966 #CC9933 #CC9900 #CC66FF #CC66CC #CC6699 #CC6666 #CC6633 #CC6600 #CC33FF #CC33CC #CC3399 #CC3366 #CC3333 #CC3300 #CC00FF #CC00CC #CC0099 #CC0066 #CC0033 #CC0000 Hex Code Color #99FFFF #99FFCC #99FF99 #99FF66 #99FF33 #99FF00 #99CCFF #99CCCC #99CC99 #99CC66 #99CC33 #99CC00 #9999FF #9999CC #999999 #999966 #999933 #999900 #9966FF #9966CC #996699 #996666 #996633 #996600 #9933FF #9933CC #993399 #993366 #993333 #993300 #9900FF #9900CC #990099 #990066 #990033 #990000 Hex Code Color #00FFFF #00FFCC #00FF99 #00FF66 #00FF33 #00FF00 #00CCFF #00CCCC #00CC99 #00CC66 #00CC33 #00CC00 #0099FF #0099CC #009999 #009966 #009933 #009900 #0066FF #0066CC #006699 #006666 #006633 #006600 #0033FF #0033CC #003399 #003366 #003333 #003300 #0000FF #0000CC #000099 #000066 #000033 #000000 Hex Code Color #33FFFF #33FFCC #33FF99 #33FF66 #33FF33 #33FF00 #33CCFF #33CCCC #33CC99 #33CC66 #33CC33 #33CC00 #3399FF #3399CC #339999 #339966 #339933 #339900 #3366FF #3366CC #336699 #336666 #336633 #336600 #3333FF #3333CC #333399 #333366 #333333 #333300 #3300FF #3300CC #330099 #330066 #330033 #330000
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